Faster Than Handsewing

Back to the library, with occasional bouts of sewing on the side...

Wednesday, September 29

Camicia Pattern

It will have gussets in it. This seems to be supported by extant garments, pictorial evidence, and practical experience. I'm still hoping to find out linen loom widths for 15th-century Forence, but the sleeves and body are going to be constructed out of geometric shapes (no tailoring). Again, this is based on extant garments, but also the production of camicias in this period - a definite labour division between professional male tailors employed to cut outerwear, and home or non-guild production of camicias by women. This labour division suggests that camicias were not seen as requiring professional tailoring techniques. I wouldn't use this speculation as my main evidence, but it does support the geometric patterning idea. Length to mid calf also seems to be well supported.

The areas I'm still debating over are sleeve width, and gathering.
The tendancy in SCA camicia comstruction seems to be towards really huge sleeves, but the pictorial evidence doesn't really support this. I'm wondering how much of the really huge sleeve thing comes out of trying to get the puffed-out look in sleeve gaps when working with cotton fabric. Using linen should mean that the fabric will hold creases and the puffed-out look, not neccessarily requiring as much fabric. The 15th century also seems to be a point of transition from the tighter sleeve of earlier periods to the late period big sleeve. I'm still thinking about this.
The gathering issue seems also to be a transition period issue. I can point to strong evidence for non-gathered necklines before the 15th century, and also strong evidence for gathered necklines after, but the 15th century remains debateable. I'm tending towards non-gathered for two reasons - I can pictorially support this, even if gathered isn't ruled out, and of course, it's easier.

I should collect my fabric from the line where it has been sitting for the last week, and get started soon.

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