Because I really should be doing work...

I played on the internet instead, and found more useful pictures. In some you can see a fine pleated effect in the gap where the gamurra (overdress) laces up in front - which does suggest gathering. However, on my 'the fabric makes a difference' argument that I was thinking through for the sleeves, I'm wondering if you can get a similar effect by setting the pleats in the fabric by wringing it out to dry (kind of like a cheese-cloth-y look). Okay. I'm going to test this. This camicia will have an ungathered neckline.